John Deere Baler Serial Number Lookup 🔗


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John Deere Baler Serial Number Lookup

Its turnin that old John Deere tractor so hard but the spindle will not come off the end of the baler. My theory was that a prop shaft broke but then I looked at it in the snow and the end was well worn but hadnt worn off as the shaft was still in there. I know the grass went through there. Has anybody every run a John Deere in snow? I have built my own starter and inlet ports for my balers and even use a baler to start my forage harvester. I am getting a rebuild kit and plan to make a new inlet and exhaust port for the starter. It will probably work. I will see how it starts and if it can start goin after that. If it doesnt work Ill be back in a few years. I went through and looked at all the seals on the baler with a tooth pick. While the forage harvester has no toothed seals I went over all the seals on the baler to see what was where. I will post pictures of the inlet ports once I get the rebuilt baler.

The easiest way to search for an engine without records is to call the manufacturer, and speak to one of their service representatives. They will have direct access to the records if one exists. On-line engines often have the engine number stamped into the metal to help in identifying the engine. For on-line searches, we suggest that you paste the number into the engine number search on the John Deere Directory. John Deere.com can be found at http://www.johndeere.com/site/ john-deere/directories/directory.html.

I have a source close to John Deere and Harrenstein’s offices. He told me that in 1965, they attempted to make a model 125 that would be a package tractor and a baler. It was not a good idea and was abandoned. He did not know if any records exist for the project.

my first thought would be to start by checking the continuity between the two batteries. and then, to insure that the batteries are good and that the switch is in the correct posistion, there are two plumb positions on the switch. the two posts are labeled left and right and the switch is centered in the middle.
1. the fuse holder is probably a couple of years old. you may not even have one there. once a fuse develops a short, its really easy to bypass it with a little tweezers. i would look for it first. pull it off and you can search for the blown one. when we start something that needs a fuse, i grab one from the original spare box and leave it in the tractor. all of my fuses were replaced long ago. if you cannot find the original fuse holder, you can build one and connect it to the tractor.
2. the batteries are covered by a hinged piece of steel. the piece needs to be opened before you can inspect the batteries and make sure theyre ok. otherwise you dont know if any connection between terminals is loose. to open them, use a soft-tipped screwdriver to pry the bolt into position, then push it down until you can grab the bolt and pull it through. once the bolt is off, open each end and look for electrical connections that need to be tightened.
3. check that the electrical connections to the starter solenoid and starting motor are tight and there is no over-ride switch. also be sure that both the clutch switch and the clutch solenoid are closed. the clutch switch is usually on the side of the steering. the solenoid is in the steering column, usually on the right side of the steering wheel.
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